Things to Do in Sri Lanka in November, December and January

Short answer: From November to January, go to the south and west coast. Mirissa, Unawatuna, Galle, Hikkaduwa and Bentota get calm sea and sunny days, whale watching starts in Mirissa, Adam's Peak opens for climbing in December, and Yala is open for leopard safaris. Leave the east coast (Trincomalee, Nilaveli, Arugam Bay) for another trip. It's rainy and rough there until around April, and at its best from May to September.

That's what I tell almost everyone who messages me about a winter trip. The rest of this page explains why, and what to do once you're here.

Is November to January a good time to visit Sri Lanka?

Yes, if you plan it around the right side of the island.

Sri Lanka gets two monsoons, and they don't hit the whole country at once. From November to January, the north-east monsoon brings rain to the east and north. The south and west are just coming out of their wet season, so this is when they're at their best.

Here's roughly how each month goes:

• November: A changeover month. The south coast is mostly good, but you'll still get some afternoon showers. It's quieter and a bit cheaper than December.
• December: Dry and sunny on the south and west coasts. It's the busiest month of the year, especially from about 20 December to New Year.
• January: Often the best month overall. Clear skies on the coast and fewer showers in the hills. It gets a little less busy after the first week.

Which beaches are best in Sri Lanka in December?

The best beaches from November to January are Mirissa, Unawatuna, Hikkaduwa and Bentota, plus Galle along the same stretch. Each one has a different feel, so here's how I'd pick between them.

Mirissa: for whale watching and a relaxed beach

Mirissa is small, easy-going and full of good places to eat. It's also the base for whale watching, which runs from about November to April. Blue whales and sperm whales come close to the coast here, which isn't common anywhere in the world.

Boats leave around 6 to 7am and you're out for four or five hours. The sea further out can be rough even when the beach is flat, so take a seasickness tablet before you board if you need one. Book a boat operator that keeps a proper distance from the whales. Most of the better ones say so on their website.

Unawatuna: for easy swimming

Unawatuna is a curved bay with a reef across the mouth, so the water is calmer than most of the coast. If you're travelling with kids, or you just want to swim without fighting the waves, this is the one I'd choose. Jungle Beach is a short tuk-tuk ride away and is good for snorkelling on clear days.

Galle Fort: for an afternoon, not a beach day

Galle Fort isn't a beach, but most people stay in Unawatuna or nearby and spend an afternoon here. Walk the ramparts, get lost in the old streets, have a coffee, and stay on the wall for sunset. Some of the nicest small hotels on the island are inside the fort, if you'd like to stay a night.

Hikkaduwa: for snorkelling and a livelier crowd

Hikkaduwa has more bars and a younger crowd than the other beaches. The reef starts right off the beach, and green sea turtles often feed in the shallow water. Please don't feed them or touch them, even if other people are.

Bentota: for a quieter, resort-style stay

Bentota is the closest of these beaches to the airport, about an hour and a half away on the expressway. It has wide beaches and bigger hotels, and it's a good first or last stop. Spend a morning on a boat on the Bentota River or the Madu River. The turtle hatcheries at Kosgoda are close by, too.

Should I go to Trincomalee or Arugam Bay in December?

I wouldn't. The east coast is lovely, but November to January is its off-season. You'll get rain, rough sea and a lot of places closed. Boats to Pigeon Island often don't run, and the surf in Arugam Bay isn't in season.

What else is there to do in Sri Lanka from November to January?

Climb Adam's Peak (from the December full moon)

The Adam's Peak (Sri Pada) pilgrimage season starts on the December full moon and runs until May. During the season, the steps are lit all night and the tea stalls along the path are open.

Most people start around 2am and reach the top for sunrise. That's about 5,500 steps, and it's cold at the summit, so bring a jacket. Avoid weekends and full moon days if you can. The queue near the top can stop moving for an hour.

Go on safari in Yala or Udawalawe

Yala reopens after its yearly closure in September and October, and the park is green and full of animals by November. It's one of the best places in the world to see a leopard, though sightings are never guaranteed. Go on the morning safari. Sightings are better and the heat is easier.

If elephants matter more to you than leopards, choose Udawalawe. You'll see herds on almost every safari, and it sits on the way from Ella to the south coast.

Take the train through the tea country

The best part of the famous hill country train ride is Nanu Oya to Ella, not the whole line from Kandy. Reserved seats in December and January sell out quickly, so book once your dates are fixed.

A lot of guests are surprised by the rain here. November and December in the hills bring mist and afternoon showers. January is usually clearer. Plan viewpoints and hikes like Little Adam's Peak, Ella Rock and Horton Plains for early morning, when you have the best chance of a view. If you're staying a while, read our guide to three days in Ella.

Visit Sigiriya and the Cultural Triangle

Sigiriya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa get some rain in November and December, but it usually comes as a shower rather than a whole wet day. Climb Sigiriya at opening time to beat the heat and the tour buses. For a quieter climb, go up Pidurangala instead. It's cheaper, and from the top you look straight across at Sigiriya.

Catch a festival

• Christmas in Colombo: The hotels and main streets are decorated, and churches are full for midnight mass. It's a nice side of the city most visitors don't expect.
• Duruthu Perahera (January): A big night procession at Kelaniya temple, just outside Colombo, with drummers, dancers and decorated elephants. It's held around the January full moon.
• Poya days: Every full moon is a public holiday. Shops and most restaurants don't sell alcohol that day, so plan ahead if it matters to you.

A simple 10 to 12 day route for this time of year

This route follows the good weather and ends on the beach:

1. Negombo: 1 night to rest after the flight
2. Sigiriya / Dambulla: 2 nights
3. Kandy: 1 night
4. Nuwara Eliya: 1 night, then the morning train to Ella
5. Ella: 2 nights
6. Udawalawe or Yala: 1 night for a safari
7. Mirissa: 2 to 3 nights, including whale watching
8. Galle or Bentota: 1 night before your flight

If you only have a week, cut the Cultural Triangle and go straight from the airport to Kandy. For a day-by-day version, see our 10-day Sri Lanka itinerary.

How to get around

Driving times here are longer than they look on a map. Kandy to Ella is only about 140 km, but it takes most of the day on hill roads. Most of our guests use a private driver so they can stop at a waterfall or a tea stall whenever they like. Your bags stay in the car, so on train days your driver takes them ahead and meets you in Ella.

You can book one driver for the whole trip or just the transfers you need. I handle the bookings myself. If you're coming in late December, message me early. Good drivers are booked for the holiday weeks well before November.

Frequently asked questions